Mazda 323 GTX
- For Sale and Wanted to Buy
This information is provided as a service to 323 GTX enthusiasts worldwide. If you have questions about a particular item, please contact that person directly. Here's how to be listed, and be sure to visit the GTX picture gallery, or maybe you want to jump directly to Wanted. |
| News Flashes |
| Warning: if you are selling a car watch out for the cashiers check scams that are going around. Don't assume that a cashiers check is real even if your bank clears it right away. Never let the buyer talk you into cashing a bigger check and sending cash or Western Union to "the shipper" or "a friend". |
| Speed Channel on cable TV is running a show called Tuner Transformation. One episode does a GTX project. Check out http://www.tunertransformation.com/e5.htm |
| Latest update: October 15, 2004 |
| Cars have been sold at least ninety one times through this page! That's a lot, considering that only about a thousand of the cars were sold in North America. |
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| For Sale |
- 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Vancouver, BC, Canada)
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1988, white, 126 000 km, excellent condition. $5000 Canadian.
Contact: mgargiulo@telus.net or call 604-984-3315.
(Listed Oct. 15, 2004) - 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Minnetonka, Minnesota)
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX 5 speed 58k original miles. Mint shape, show quality.
Has HKS exhaust and air filter otherwise stock. Black/grey interior,
new tires and timing belt, extra tires and wheels. Must see to believe.
US$7995
Contact: Ron Johnson porschefreak@earthlink.net or call 952-476-7445 or 612-730-2351
(Listed Oct. 13, 2004) - 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Tempe, Arizona)
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX, ocated in Tempe, AZ (near ASU).
Shifts good, pulls hard, runs 15psi with the mods to make it safe.
Full list of modifications, pictures, and all the details:
http://hoagie.mervernation.com/gtx/index.html
I bought it with all modifications done and have hardly driven it since last December. I recently moved to allow me to go back to school full time and no longer have a garage for it nor the time and money to play with it. Hoping it can go to an enthusiast who can take care of it.
Asking US$4,000 or best offer, I need it gone! Open to trades, trades plus cash from either side. I'm very much against shipping it, a friend of mine had nothing but huge problems, expensive problems, shipping his RX-7. It's going to need a water pump soon so I'd advise against driving it outside of the Phoenix area just in case. Please email me with any questions.
Contact: jesse@waffleiron.org
(Listed Oct. 11, 2004) - 1988 323 GTX (Colorado Springs, Colorado)
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I am in Colorado Springs, Co and have a 1988 323 GTX. I have had it
about 6 years. I got it with 113,000 on it and it now has about 157,000
on it. It is black, the paint is oxidizing bad on the hood and roof, but
the body is straight. The engine got too hot a couple of months
ago and the head is warped. It is off the car and warped about .008, I don't
want to spend the money to fix it. Head needs a valve job,
etc. Asking $1,000 or best offer for the car as is. It would make a
good project.
Contact: nhathaway@ffa-inc.com or call 719-535-8259
(Listed Oct. 2, 2004) - 1988 323 GTX (Detroit, Michigan)
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1988 323 GTX, red, with approximately 150k miles. No
mods. Exterior has typical rust on rear quarters and
on the sunroof panel too. Also has a dent in the
driver side door just under the door handle. Someone
bumped into it while backing out of their driveway.
Interior is in good shape. Car isn't in perfect
shape, and probably needs a motor rebuild as well. It
smokes under hard acceleration (rings and seals?), and
burns a bit of oil too. Will need a new clutch as
well. It does have a new timing belt and water pump.
With a rebuild it would be a great car. Just don't
have the funds or time to pursue it right now, and
hate to see the car just sit. I don't have any pics
right now, but should have some after this weekend.
So if anyone is interested, you can email me or call me. I'm asking
$1300US for it, but will entertain other reasonable
offers as well. For pictures, visit http://homepage.mac.com/amandakoh/323GTX/PhotoAlbum5.html
Contact: inspector16@yahoo.com or call 248.544.1163, which is my home number, or 586.986.2553, which is my work number.
(Listed Oct. 2, 2004) - 1988 323 GTX (Toronto, Canada)
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1988 323 GTX, 220,000 kms, located in Toronto.
Fully reconditioned head, new brakes all around, all repair documents for over last 10 years, Royal Purple synthetic fluid in the
tranny, transfer case, & rear diff., full tune up, upgrades - Reich Racing ECU (dyno tuned for fuel and timing to 16 lbs of boost),
HKS intake & high flow cat, 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, custom full race adjustable coil over suspension
(a real coil over suspension , not pieces put together to create one.. it has dual springs so it is not hard on the road..
it's just simply beautiful). Problems: 2nd gear grinds if you try to shift hard.. regular shifts do NOT grind... , e-brake
cable needs to be replaced(I can do it if you need), spoiler has come off on one side of the hatch (I have a new spoiler
to replace it if you want).
Car is in 100% running shape (very strong), everything works, just drive this one, needs hardly anything, some rust on the wheel wells, moonroof, and hatch but it has been cleaned up. I am willing to replace the spoiler and replace the e-brake cable... This car is a beauty....silver exterior... This car has never been rallied or raced. I drive the car everyday so everything is still exactly like I describe...Looking to get $5000 CDN obo
Contact: Lude01234567@aol.com or call 416 881-7698
(Listed Sept. 22, 2004) - Parting out 1988 GTX (Quebec City, Canada)
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I have a Mazda 323 GTX from Vermont and now in Quebec City (Canada) that I'm parting out:
- Engine with 100Kapprox.strong and crank OK (compression test available), turbo, harness, ECU (everything needed for a swap); 800$us
- Transmission with 50k (receipt of rebuilt), good synchros and each gear is working well; 700$us
- Driveshaft; 150$us
- Wheel hub; 75$us each
- Axles; 50$us each
- Fuel tank no rust (5yrs still warranty) 150$us
- Digital dash; offer
- Front seat (fair condition); offer
- Center lock console; offer
- Window switch/motor; offer
- All other parts except rear seat and hatch wings (missing); offer
Contact: Yanick, chutenvacance@hotmail.com
(Updated August 22, 2004) - 1988 GTX (New York State)
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Red and gray 1988 Mazda 323 GTX with about 70k on the chassis and 65k on a big-nose crank B6T engine
out of a '93 Capri XR-2. Here's a list of my modifications (all done
within the last 6k miles): KYB euro spec struts, ST lowering springs,
new front and rear sway bar bushings, new tie rod ends and ball
joints, 4 new brake calipers, front kvr cross-drilled brake rotors,
stainless steel lines all around, kvr carbon fibre pads all around
also, HKS Turbo Cat-Back exhaust, Hi-Flo Intake filter and HKS up-pipe,
Magnecore wires, NGK Plugs, Reich Racing ECU for an XR-2 (a lot
of people run on GTX chips), Turbosmart compressor bypass valve, new
PCV valve, all new oil seals (pan and all), new rear main seal, Probe
GT intercooler, VJ-14 w/ VJ-16 compressor side (4k on it), Autometer
Sport-comp Boost + A/F gauges, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, cleaned and
rebuilt (by RC Engineering) fuel injectors, new motor mounts,
hardened shifter bushings, new oil and water pump, new alternator,
new shifter cables, act cltuch, findanza lightweight aluminum
flywheel, stainless steel clutch line, 15" Enkei RP-01 Wheels painted
black w/ 205/50VR15 Toyo Proxes T1-S.
Also included (but not installed): clutch master cylinder, 2 sets of stock GTX wheels both with new tires, black wheels with Bridgestone RE950 195/60HR14 and silver wheels with Falken ZE-512 Azenis 195/60HR14, high flow downpipe, second turbo (fresh VJ-14 off the XR-2 motor), burnt-out turbo off the original GTX motor, front c-arm bushings, addco rear sway bar, stock fuel pump, oem distributor, and a whole other garage of full of misc. parts. The body of the car is almost flawless, the only small issues are an unpainted hood, missing passenger fender trim, two small pits in the front of the sunroof on the corners (both no more then 1/8"). Asking US$4000 obo.
Contact: jgtx35@yahoo.com or call Josh at 845-416-1246 anytime.
(Updated August 13, 2004) - 1988 GTX (Chicago)
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Red '88 Mazda 323 GTX - 131K miles. California car, located in Chicago now.
Rebuilt motor at 105K miles-Not a crank problem, I went a little crazy with the boost and burned a valve. I did, however, put
a Miata crank in just to be safe. Intake was machined and glass-beaded.
Brand new trans put in at 110Kmiles, for no other reason than that I had one; trans has different 5th
gear that lowers RPMs. Mods include: manual boost control valve, 626 intercooler, G-Force computer, Road-Race
modified air box, aluminum 2 1/2 inch exhaust with hi-flo cat. Glass sunroof from '93 Escort. Seats
need a little love(small tears). Decent radio (Panasonic CD player and 6x9s in the back).
Autometer boost gauge, GReddy turbo timer. Left quarter is starting to rust. Just had the
rear brakes done and also the rear wheel bearings. No frame rust whatsoever.
I will sell this car with an extra trans and extra set of stock wheels that were painted black. The GTX is a blast to drive and regularly ran 15 flat before I decided that it really wasn't a drag car (but people really love the 1.9 60ft times!)
US$4,200, OBO. Less without extra trans and wheels.
Contact: Matt Johnson, phone 773 818-7990, matthewmjohnson@hotmail.com
(Listed August 11, 2004) - 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Indiana)
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Here is the good:
- 1988 110k miles on speedo
- Mark Todd's Old Motor
- 20k Miles on Bottom Half
- 70k Miles on head and intake mani
- PNP intake mani and head port matched at 50k miles
- rebuilt head at 50k miles
- RRE Coilover Suspension
- Eibach Race Springs
- Koni Adjustables
- Rx7 Camber bolts
- Centerforce Stage 2 Clutch 0 miles
- Fidanza Flywheel
- Rx7 bosch Alternator 0 miles
- HKS intake
- HKS J-Pipe
- HKS Exhaust
- Turbo been replaced under warranty once before
- Turbo has no play
- G-Force Modified ECU
- NO Grinds in transmission
- Lockable Diff works
- Would probably come with Lancer OZ wheels and yoko All seasons
- MOMO steering wheel
- RRE Pedal Covers
- New/Rebuilt/Painted Radiator
- Great Interior, no rips..etc
- X-member needs custom mounting to work
- Rusty Frame
- Rusty Body
- Rusty Chassis
- Slight Rust on sunroof( have glass roof for sale too)
- hole in filler neck to gas tank, it will leak if filled to top.(have 3 month old gas tank for sale
- Needs brakes all around to work (Have front big brake kit for sale)
Shoot me some offers and any questions and any picture requests, pickup car only.
Contact: Mark, mfeldhak@purdue.edu
(Listed July 30, 2004) - 1988 GTX (New York State)
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116K miles. Black/grey. All original and stock. It runs well and has no crank wobble. Interior
is nice and it has a digital dash. It has the usual rust in the rear quarter panels and some
minor rust on the sunroof panel. It also has a Small dent in the hatch. It needs a complete
suspension (struts and springs) and probably CV joints and wheel bearings, but it is drivable.
Includes owners manual and yellow service manual, original window sticker, some nos tune up parts,
new timing belt and water pump (not installed), Thule roof rack, and a set of steel rims with
studded snows. I am the second owner but I must sell due to lack of time and space.
Asking US$1700 OBO. The car is in New York about 30 minutes north of NYC.
Contact: Rich, rhan696@yahoo.com
(Listed July 15, 2004) - '88 GTX (Bakersfield, California)
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1988 GTX - body in great shape. New tires, front brakes recently rebuilt. Center differential is dead !
184 hp to the wheels -- have dyno test. Engine strong. Car still runs. US$2000 OBO. Bakersfield, CA.
Contact: Llamahiker@aol.com, phone (661) 867-2692
(Listed June 2, 2004) - 88 GTX (Morgan Hill, California)
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX. 2nd owner. Red/gray exterior and gray interior. 200,000 miles on the odometer.
Engine rebuild at 177,000 along with turbo rebuild, new clutch, new fuel level sensor and all new
hoses. Tranny and 4WD have never had a problem and work great. Only synthetic oil has been used
for both engine, tranny and rear end and has been changed regularly. Paint is in good condition
starting to fade on the mirrors and tops of bumpers, no dents, only a few door dings and rock chips
on the front of hood. Manual windows and sunroof (no leaks). New windshield (last fall).
Original interior (good condition) except for Momo steering wheel - all gauges still work.
Needs shocks. Car runs and drives great - wish it didn't have to be sold! Car has always
resided in California and is currently in Morgan Hill, CA. Asking US$4,000. Can send pictures.
Contact: pilarmmiranda@msn.com
(Listed May 27, 2004)
| Wanted to Buy |
- Wanted: Mazda GTX AWD drive train (Singapore)
-
I would like to convert my Ford TX3 2wd to a AWD version. I am looking for parts to do this conversion.
Parts are to be shipped to Singapore in the far east. Thanks.
Contact: Julian Chia, lordalfa@starhub.net.sg
(Listed July 15, 2004) - Wanted: 323 GTX (California)
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I live in California, and want a 1988 or '89 GTX in running condition with
most of the parts working. The car would have to be in California. I am
looking to buy it at $1500 or so.
Contact: jilongie@yahoo.com
(Listed June 28, 2004)
| Tech Tips and Questions |
- Q. Engine swap question.
- Have anyone of you guys out there ever considered putting a RX-7 engine into a GTX (1600) ? I just seized up my engine (got a little too eager with the boost pressure setting), and I'm considering swapping the engine for a RX-7 Turbo II or the latest Bi-turbo RX engine. If anyone has done this, please drop me a note. I would like to hear from anyone with remarks or suggestions on this swap.
- Thanks a lot in advance.
- Contact: Frank Ove Mannsaker, frank.ove.mannsaaker.hyundai@kolberg.no (Oslo, Norway)
- (Posted August 18,1998)
- P.S.: Anyone got a RX-7 turbo engine for sale? Need complete engine with all harness and aux, or a wrecked car/front part. Europe or U.S. OK.
- Q. GTX Problems
- Hey Reed,
- I was wondering if you, or maybe one of your website visitors could help me out. I have an 1988 GTX with 115 000 KMs on the odometer. The problem I have is that when I floor the car in fifth gear, or near floor it, the turbo light blinks and a beeper sounds. This only happens in fifth, and not in any of the previous four gears. I was curious if anyone else has encountered this problem, and would be aware of the problem. Thanks a million, and keep up the great work on the page.
- Contact: Brian Oldford, b.oldford@nf.sympatico.ca
- Q. Problem with cracks in engine
- I am currently experiencing trouble with a GTX 1600 Turbo that seems to have a crack in the cylinder block. The cylinder head has been off and pressure tested, and a new gasket fitted. But the problem is still there. Anyone out there who has experienced this before me?
- The pressure in the cooling system is HIGH even when it is cold, and white smoke is coming out of the exhaust. Turbo is brand new. Looking forward to your mail.
- Contact: frank.ove.mannsaker.hyundai@kolberg.no
- Question on 323 GTX Wheelbearings
- I am Dave Miller from Skaneateles, NY and have an '88 GTX, from new, with 87K on the clock. I love the car but recently have had trouble keeping wheelbearings in it. I have had two independent shops replace all four corners (about twice, it seems) since the first one went at about 65K. I have stayed away from the only dealer in Syracuse due to bad past experiences and would appreciate it if anyone in the group has some advice as to how to cure my problem. Thanks very much.
- Contact: Dave Miller, millerdave@att.net
- Eager Boost Cutoff
- My '88 GTX has just been totally rebuilt from the ground up. The engine is stock other than a ported and polished head. Unfortunately I can't stay off the boost cutoff. I can hit the rev redline in first easily and the boost is about 8-9 psi, but when I shift to second, the boost takes about a tenth of a second to hit 11 psi and the cutoff if I stomp it. Each sucessive gear is the same thing. The only way to accelerate with this car is to use about 1/4 throttle and feather it just below the boost cutoff. Maybe this is normal, but I'm sure the car would be quicker WITHOUT the turbo. My mechanic says the wastegate is working, but I'm not too sure... suggestions?
- Contact: Dr. R. Bruce Murphy, email <nerf@ibm.net>, Ottawa Ontario Canada
- High idle when warm
- My GTX recently started idling at nearly 2000rpm when warm. I've got a factory maintenance manual and it seems to point to a faulty BAC valve but the price on one of those is over $500. I'm also getting a "Check Engine" light. Good news is that the engine is still there! Bad news is that I don't have one of those little thingy's to check the code in the computer - know how to do it the "other" way?
- From: John A. Virnig, email <javirnig@aol.com>
- A. Problem Solved!
- I found the problem a short time after a person on your web page emailed me. Turns out the A/C button was depressed and while the A/C isn't working (insufficient Freon), the computer still bumps the idle.
- Reading Diagnostic Codes
- Here's how you get the codes from the computer without the Mazda diagnostic tool.
- When you open your hood there is a pair of green connectors driver's side right back by the hood hinge. One is a six or eight pin connector, the other is a single pin. The eight pin works with the Mazda System 27 checker. That gives the codes directly to the checker, but you need the tool. The other single wire connector is the one that you want. It should be a female spade connector. All you do is shut the car off, open your hood, ground that connector (I have a male jumper for the connector and an alligator clip on the other end that I grab one of the strut mounting studs for grounding), hop back in the car and turn the ignition switch to on. In addition to seeing your oil light and your alternator light, you should see a check engine light on the top row. The light comes on steady for two or three seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on, but then will blink out the code that the computer has stored. Long blinks mean 10's and short blinks mean ones. Multiple codes are separated by a pause. The meaning of each of the codes is in the factory workshop manual, although you have to look a bit.
- 323 GTX tech questions
- Hello, could you help me with 2 questions about our 323gtx's please?
- 1.Can you tell what that switch on the clutch pedal (at the top of the clutch arm)is, and what it does? It seems to prevent me from doing any type of fast shifting.
- 2.Twice while driving (making around 9-10lbs boost) I heard a horn type noise go off. Is this the factory boost cut off system? Do I need to bypass this to make MORE BOOST!?
- Thank you, Ben in B.C.
- Contact: <Mick1@netcom.ca
- Differences between '92 GTR and '91 GTX?
- I have the chance to buy a 1992 323 GTR or a 1991 GTX. They look very similar but because neither was ever imported into the UK, I know nothing about what the difference is. Can you tell me ? Details such as :
- engine (turbo, horespower etc.)
- suspension
- transmission (LSD etc)
- performance
- I used to own a 1987 323 GTX and I did some hillclimbs with it in the UK and I thought it was a brilliant little car.
- Contact: Phil Davies <sales@fil.co.uk>
- How to lower the suspension
- My name is Boris, I own a 87 Ford TX3 4WD TURBO (Mazda 323 GTX) and I am considering to lower the suspension. Is there any other way to lower the suspensions without disconnecting them? If so, can you tell me in detail how to do that? Thank you for you help.....
- Boris
- Western Australia
- Contact:<semb@onaustralia.com.au>
- What might make the engine race uncontrollably?
- I have a 1988 323 GTX 1.6 L (stock) 92,000 mi., with a PFC-FCON, adjustable boost under the hood with exhaust turbo out, a reprogrammed ECU, and a dual-friction clutch pushing sixteen and a half pounds boost. I was racing it through first, second, and third gear, while slowing into fourth it revved to 8000 RPMs with out my foot on the gas in neutral. I turned the car off (took the key out), and it was still revving at the same RPM for approximately 15 to 30 seconds longer. I then put in fourth gear to kill the engine while at an almost complete stop. Towed the vehicle home and did a compression test with cylinder 1,3,4, with the normal compression and number two with about 60% compression of the others. Now there is oil in my turbo (which is a stock turbo). What I would like to know is what may be the cause of my engine racing like that and what could have happened to the car, and should I try to run it? I will appreciate all replies.
- Contact:<Tecknovore@aol.com>
- Shocks, or shocks, springs, bushings, swaybars?
- I'm seeking performance information. My 1988 GTX has stock wheels, springs and suspension. It currently needs a new shock (it's leaking) and I am trying to decide whether to replace all 4 just to be safe, what to buy and whether to have the struts or any other suspension part changed at the same time.
- The car has 90K miles on it and the suspension is all original. I plan to do mainly street driving but would like to increase handling as much as possible for as little money as possible.
- I used to have an 1987 Civic SI with Tokiko Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks, stiffer rear springs, stiffer sway bars, 13x6 revolution wheels and 195x60x13 tires. This car was set up by Chuck Noonan of CRE Racing in Barry MA and it handled like a slot car on the road. I would like to get that type of handling out of the GTX but don't want to pay $3000 to do so.
- Can you recommend a shock? Is it OK to stay with OEM Mazda or go with something like a Tokiko?
- Given that the car is a lot stiffer than a stock 323 and the sway bars look really beefy and that I know a lot of people racing on springs with over 100,000 miles on them:
- Would I get a significant increase in handling by going with aftermarket struts? What kind?
- Would I get a significant increase in handling by going with aftermarket sway bars? What kind?
- The bushings on the swaybars look worn, any suggestions on what to replace them with?
- Can you point me to anyone in the Boston area that works on GTXs?
- Contact: Donald Eburne <Donald.Eburne@LibertyMutual.com>
- Q. Engine Trouble
- I have a real stumper here and I'm hoping you can help me out! I own an '88 Mazda 323 GT which has one of those fancy 16 valve DOHC TURBO charged engines. It currently has 99,450 miles on it.
- Last Sunday I washed the engine with a power washer. It hasn't been the same since. When I drove away I could hear sparking and could tell it was missing because of the water. I let it sit until the next day, when I noticed it was loosing power up around 4000 RPM. In fact it was taking so long to accelerate from 4000-5000 RPM that the Turbo Over boost warning came on! I continued to drive the car for a few days and the problem got worse and worse. It was so bad Wednesday night that I had to slip the clutch significantly just to get the car rolling. If I kept the engine below 3000 RPM it would decelerate even with it floored.
- On Thursday I took it to my local shop. The found a crack in the distributor cap so we replaced it. Unfortunately that didn't do anything. After they checked all the obvious things I decided to try to get to work! I barely got on to the highway, but managed some how. When I got off the highway (30 miles later) the car was FINE, it had fixed it's self!! I was excited! Only to my dismay did I find the problem back Thursday evening when I got in to go home. The same thing happened on the ride home. After about 15 min on the highway it fixed it self and I had full power.
- I took it to shop number 2 on Friday and left it there all day. He couldn't find anything wrong. He checked spark, timing, fuel pressure, air filter/intake, the exhaust system for a blockage and anything else he could think of. After a day of looking he called me and said I give up.
- Monday I took it to the dealer and they did a wet compression check and said that the cylinders are supposed to have 154 but only have 100,90,80,104. They want me to authorize them to tear down the engine for $500.00 just to give me a diagnosis and estimate. What should I do? How could it be an intermittent problem and have low compression? Any advice would be much appreciated.
- Thank you for your time. Jeff Banet
- A. Problem Solved!
- Date Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:16:28 -0400
- From: Jeff Banet
- Thanks for the posting, it turned out to be the crank that was broken!! Read below, Brian knew right what it was! As it turned out, the dealer figured it out the same day Brian e-mailed me...
- Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 23:49:12 -0400
- From: Brian Project323@Rocketmail.com
- Subject: your 323 gtx problem
- Jeff, First of all check the bottom pulley attatched to your crankshaft. Does it appear to wobble from side-to-side? It sounds like you have a broken keyway on your crankshaft. This accounts for the low compression readings and dismal performance. It is likely a coincidence that you pressure washed the car when you did. If you need help with a replacement crank or bottom end please write or call me. Project 323 is the world wide owners group for Mazda 323 enthusiasts. I have several used and 1 new bottom end around as well as ECUs, turbos (new & used) and always have a huge supply of parts on hand
- Q. Normal Exhaust Temp?
- What should the normal exhaust gas temperature range be on the 1988 B6 DOHC engine as measured at the exhaust manifold?
- Thanks, Eric Rehwald, Jasper, AB, Canada
- A. Around 1300 F
- I have a 323 Gtx and I saw your question about the exhaust gas temp. on the turbo engine. I took out my catalytic convertor but I was seeing 1350 F on the interstate. Now I rarely get over 1300 but road race told me that these are normal temp's. If you get up around 1600 something is wrong. I try and let my car cool 1min~800 F, 2min~1000 F, 4in~>1200 F. Hope this helps some. Mike at road race is the expert.
- From: Clay McLendon
- Stumble off idle
- I have a question for visitors to this site. My GTX has a bad stumble just off of idle. It is most noticeable when trying to hold a steady speed, like on the highway. It only does it when it is warm. First thought was throttle position sensor, but no trouble codes are indicated by the computer, and everything checks out in terms of resistances. If I take the computer out of closed loop by disconnecting the Oxygen sensor the problem goes away. The sensor is a Bosch unit, and is sending a signal. Has anyone else had a similar problem?
- A. Problem Solved!
- The problem was traced to a bad ground.
- Difficult to lock center differential
- Lately I noticed that it is quite difficult to lock my center differential, and once it engages it is awfully difficult to disengage. My Mazda dealer thinks that I may need a new actuator (servomotor?). I am wondering if anyone has had a similar problem, and thus a possible solution.
- I would also like to find out how I can modify the anti-detonation reduction of the boost, which in my case often comes on as early as 13 pounds.
- Contact: Peter Novak <penovak@ibm.net>
Books from amazon.com |
- Mazda Motorsports
- A great little book, with plenty of photos, that covers the spectrum of Mazda racing in the USA from about 1970 through 1991. Several cool pictures of full-race 323 GTX in action.
- More Information Here
- Chilton Repair Manual
- A basic manual that covers the full variety of maintenance and repair procedures.
- More Information Here
| Businesses that sell 323 GTX performance parts |
- Pete Waltz
- Pete is selling new old stock Koni struts and other
- GTX items
- http://members.cardomain.com/pkwgtx
- pkwgtx@yahoo.com
- (Listed November 5, 2003)
- DJT Motorsports
- My name is Darin Stocker, I run a small race shop called DJT Motorsports in Detroit.
- I have 2 GTX's and have worked on many, both street and race. Currently I am building
- a stroked 1.6 for a customer and am also rebuilding a transmission for another.
- DJT Motorsports - Detroit
- 313-895-9353
- (Customer wrote to say they were happy with tranny, clutch, flywheel, axles, and computer work. - Reed S., Jan. 2003)
- I have 2 GTX's and have worked on many, both street and race. Currently I am building
- Road / Race Engineering
- 13022 La Dana Ct.
- Santa Fe Springs, Ca. 90670
- (562) 777-1522 phone
- e-mail sales@roadraceengineering.com
- web site www.roadraceengineering.com
- Cork Sport
- 6705 NE 79th Ct, Suite 1
- Portland, OR 97218
- (503) 252-5700
- Web site www.corksport.com
- E . L . PROTOTYPES
- 410 S. Motor Ave. #C
- Azusa, CA 91702
- (626) 812-4358 phone
- e-mail ELProto@aol.com
- We have been doing 323 GTX and Familia ECU upgrades for about 5 years now and we have assisted in many transplants of these motors into FWD only cars. Eric Lapka, owner.
- Reich Racing Ltd
- 261-525 HD>
- (514) 668-5777
- email: Sean Magowan <sean@laval.com>
- Rod Millen Motorsport
- http://www.rodmillen.com
- HKS USA
- www.hksusa.com
- 13401 S. Main Street
- Los Angeles Ca. 90061
- (310) 491-3300
- Propulsion Motorworks
- Midori Machi 2-13-18
- Gushikawa City
- Okinawa Japan
- Tel/Fax (98)973-9322
- e-mail promotor@ii-okinawa.ne.jp
- Adelaide Jap Dismantlers
- Australian used parts supplier. Has some GTX and GTR engines.
19 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill SA 5088 AUSTRALIA
phone 61+ (8) 8369 1156 - Tri Point Engineering (Canoga Park, CA)
-
Specialize in Mazda and BMW but have done mods on GTXs.
Tri Point Engineering
21417 Ingomar St # 7
Canoga Park, CA 91304
(818) 348-5385 - Wholesale Hyperformance (Diamond Bar, CA)
-
We sell most major aftermarket performance brands for imports such as:
HKS, Blitz, Greddy, Gab, Koni, Tokico, Eibach, Intrax, Bilstein, KYB,
Magnacore, Nology, NGK, MSD, K&N, Mazdaspeed (auth. Dealer), PIAA,
Sparco, Momo, Razo, Volk, Racing Hart, SSR, RSR, Catz, OMORI, Autometer,
APEXi, etc.. (I can save import owner's much money on parts, we are very
competitive) You can check out our website:
www.wholesalehyperformance.com
WHOLESALE HYPERFORMANCE
1174 DIAMOND BAR BLVD. STE #231
DIAMOND BAR, CA. 91765
PH: 626-337-7855
FAX: 626-851-1998
E-MAIL: wholehyper@earthlink.net