Mazda 323 GTX - For Sale and Wanted to Buy
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|Latest update: March 9, 2014|
|More than one hundred fifty seven sales of Mazda GTX! Cars have been sold at least 157 times through this page. That's a lot, considering
that only about a thousand of the cars were sold new in North America.|
|Warning: if you are selling a car watch out for the cashiers
check scams that are going around.
- 1988 Mazda 323 GTX (Binghamton,NY)
Has 160k miles and runs and drives good. New parts installed within the last year:
Spare parts that can come with the car:
- rear brakes
- timing belt/ water pump
- front pulley bolt/ oil seal
- radiator hoses
- distributor cap/wires/spark plugs/ ignition coil
- Ksport coilovers (set to stock ride right)
- front suspension bushings
- all motor mounts
- Enkie rims and summer tires
- studded winter tires.
- door window seals
- both speedo cables and drive gear
- both shift cables
- stainless brake lines
- new CV boots
- rear suspension bushings
- spare half shafts (front and back).
Car runs and drives and is very reliable. I drive it quite often, Digital dash works good including the fuel level gauge. The car is all original except the suspension although I do have the original springs and shocks as well that I could include. I just had the alignment done. I reupholstered the front seats, and added seat heaters when I did. The front pulley does not wobble, and I replaced the bolt with a new OEM bolt when the timing belt was done.
Car idles high when cold, an there is a bit of rust starting to form on the sunroof. The front CV boots could use replacement.
I also have a complete spare car that I would sell with this car. The body is quite rusty, but it only has 90k miles on it. The car does come with the stock rims with the studded winter tires on them. The car is registered and drivable, so test drives can be arranged.
Price is $4000 obo.
(Listed March 9, 2014)
- Wanted 323 GTX (Minneapolis, MN)
I'm looking for a LHD 323 GTX with a fairly decent body. I'm located
in Minneapolis, MN. I'd prefer the car be drivable, if not -- at least
an okay transmission. I'm ready to purchase immediately, with cash in hand.
Contact: , Carl Rathman, phone 612.424.2882
(Listed February 6, 2011)
- Wanted 323 GTX project (Seattle, Washington)
I am looking for 323 gtx project car near Seattle, WA.
Car must run, everyting else doesn't matter. Will pay cash.
(Listed December 5, 2009)
- Wanted 323 GTX project (Indiana)
I'm looking for a GTX project. I'm in Indiana and I'm not in a big hurry, but I would like to start looking.
I've wanted to get into Rally racing for many years since I started autocrossing over 15 years ago.
Contact: Randy Domeck or call 317-258-0039
(Listed November 7, 2009)
- Wanted 323 GTX (British Columbia)
I'm looking for a 323GTX. I live in BC and would like to find one relatively rust free for trade for a 93 Toyota SR5 Pickup, or looking to spend about $2000
Contact: Pete Rensen or call 250-512-8055
(Listed October 31, 2009)
- Q. High idle when warm
My GTX recently started idling at nearly 2000rpm when warm. I've got a
factory maintenance manual and it seems to point to a faulty BAC valve
but the price on one of those is over $500. I'm also getting a "Check Engine"
light. Good news is that the engine is still there! Bad news is that I
don't have one of those little thingy's to check the code in the computer
- know how to do it the "other" way?
From: John A. Virnig, email <email@example.com>
A. Problem Solved!
I found the problem a short time after a person on your web page emailed
me. Turns out the A/C button was depressed and while the A/C isn't working
(insufficient Freon), the computer still bumps the idle.
- Q. How to read diagnostic codes?
A. Here's how you get the codes from the computer without the Mazda diagnostic tool
When you open your hood there is a pair of green connectors driver's side
right back by the hood hinge. One is a six or eight pin connector, the
other is a single pin. The eight pin works with the Mazda System 27 checker.
That gives the codes directly to the checker, but you need the tool. The
other single wire connector is the one that you want. It should be a female
spade connector. All you do is shut the car off, open your hood, ground
that connector (I have a male jumper for the connector and an alligator
clip on the other end that I grab one of the strut mounting studs for grounding),
hop back in the car and turn the ignition switch to on. In addition to
seeing your oil light and your alternator light, you should see a check
engine light on the top row. The light comes on steady for two or three
seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on, but then will blink
out the code that the computer has stored. Long blinks mean 10's and short
blinks mean ones. Multiple codes are separated by a pause. The meaning
of each of the codes is in the factory workshop manual, although you have
to look a bit.
- Q. Engine Trouble
I have a real stumper here and I'm hoping you can help me out! I own an
'88 Mazda 323 GT which has one of those fancy 16 valve DOHC TURBO charged
engines. It currently has 99,450 miles on it.
Last Sunday I washed the engine with a power washer. It hasn't been the
same since. When I drove away I could hear sparking and could tell it was
missing because of the water. I let it sit until the next day, when I noticed
it was loosing power up around 4000 RPM. In fact it was taking so long
to accelerate from 4000-5000 RPM that the Turbo Over boost warning came
on! I continued to drive the car for a few days and the problem got worse
and worse. It was so bad Wednesday night that I had to slip the clutch
significantly just to get the car rolling. If I kept the engine below 3000
RPM it would decelerate even with it floored.
On Thursday I took it to my local shop. The found a crack in the distributor
cap so we replaced it. Unfortunately that didn't do anything. After they
checked all the obvious things I decided to try to get to work! I barely
got on to the highway, but managed some how. When I got off the highway
(30 miles later) the car was FINE, it had fixed it's self!! I was excited!
Only to my dismay did I find the problem back Thursday evening when I got
in to go home. The same thing happened on the ride home. After about 15
min on the highway it fixed it self and I had full power.
I took it to shop number 2 on Friday and left it there all day. He couldn't
find anything wrong. He checked spark, timing, fuel pressure, air filter/intake,
the exhaust system for a blockage and anything else he could think of.
After a day of looking he called me and said I give up.
Monday I took it to the dealer and they did a wet compression check and
said that the cylinders are supposed to have 154 but only have 100,90,80,104.
They want me to authorize them to tear down the engine for $500.00 just
to give me a diagnosis and estimate. What should I do? How could it be
an intermittent problem and have low compression? Any advice would be much
Thank you for your time. Jeff Banet
A. Problem Solved!
Date Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:16:28 -0400
From: Jeff Banet
Thanks for the posting, it turned out to be the crank that was broken!!
Read below, Brian knew right what it was! As it turned out, the dealer
figured it out the same day Brian e-mailed me...
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 23:49:12 -0400
From: Brian <Project323@Rocketmail.com>
Subject: your 323 gtx problem
Jeff, First of all check the bottom pulley attatched to your crankshaft.
Does it appear to wobble from side-to-side? It sounds like you have a broken
keyway on your crankshaft. This accounts for the low compression readings
and dismal performance. It is likely a coincidence that you pressure washed
the car when you did. If you need help with a replacement crank or bottom
end please write or call me. Project 323 is the world wide owners group
for Mazda 323 enthusiasts. I have several used and 1 new bottom end around
as well as ECUs, turbos (new & used) and always have a huge supply
of parts on hand
- Q. Normal Exhaust Temp?
What should the normal exhaust gas temperature range be on the 1988 B6
DOHC engine as measured at the exhaust manifold?
Thanks, Eric Rehwald, Jasper, AB, Canada
A. Around 1300 F
I have a 323 Gtx and I saw your question about the exhaust gas temp. on
the turbo engine. I took out my catalytic convertor but I was seeing 1350
F on the interstate. Now I rarely get over 1300 but road race told me that
these are normal temp's. If you get up around 1600 something is wrong.
I try and let my car cool 1min~800 F, 2min~1000 F, 4in~>1200 F. Hope this
helps some. Mike at Road Race is the expert.
From: Clay McLendon
- Q. Stumble off idle
I have a question for visitors to this site. My GTX has a bad stumble just
off of idle. It is most noticeable when trying to hold a steady speed,
like on the highway. It only does it when it is warm. First thought was
throttle position sensor, but no trouble codes are indicated by the computer,
and everything checks out in terms of resistances. If I take the computer
out of closed loop by disconnecting the Oxygen sensor the problem goes
away. The sensor is a Bosch unit, and is sending a signal. Has anyone else
had a similar problem?
A. Problem Solved!
The problem was traced to a bad ground.
Here are some books that may interest you, that can be ordered online.
Books from amazon.com
A great little book, with plenty of photos, that covers the spectrum of
Mazda racing in the USA from about 1970 through 1991. Several cool pictures
of full-race 323 GTX in action.
Chilton Repair Manual
A basic manual that covers the full variety of maintenance and repair procedures.
I can't vouch for each of these folks, but here are some contacts if you are looking for parts to soup up
your 323 GTX. Please let me know of others.
that sell 323 GTX performance parts
- Advanced Jap Auto Imports
- Mobile 0421 025 216
(Listing added: September 28, 2005)
- Reich Racing Ltd
- Reich Racing Limited
261-525 Highland Road West
Canada N2M 5P4
Web site: www.ReichRacing.com
We have developed ECU upgrades and other performance parts for Mazda's 323 turbos, MX-6 GT, and the B6T
powered Mercury Capri XR2.
(Listing updated: January 3, 2005)
- DJT Motorsports
- My name is Darin Stocker, I run a small race shop called DJT Motorsports in Detroit.
I have 2 GTX's and have worked on many, both street and race. Currently I am building
a stroked 1.6 for a customer and am also rebuilding a transmission for another.
DJT Motorsports - Detroit
(Customer wrote to say they were happy with tranny, clutch, flywheel, axles, and computer work. - Reed S., Jan. 2003)
- Pete Waltz
- Pete is selling new old stock Koni struts and other GTX items
(Listed November 5, 2003)
- Road / Race Engineering
- 13022 La Dana Ct.
Santa Fe Springs, Ca. 90670
(562) 777-1522 phone
web site www.roadraceengineering.com
- Cork Sport
- 6705 NE 79th Ct, Suite 1
Portland, OR 97218
Web site www.corksport.com
- E . L . PROTOTYPES
- 410 S. Motor Ave. #C
Azusa, CA 91702
(626) 812-4358 phone
We have been doing 323 GTX and Familia ECU upgrades for about 5 years now and
we have assisted in many transplants of these motors into FWD only cars.
Eric Lapka, owner.
- Rod Millen Motorsport
- HKS USA
13401 S. Main Street
Los Angeles Ca. 90061
- Propulsion Motorworks
- Midori Machi 2-13-18
- Adelaide Jap Dismantlers
- Australian used parts supplier. Sometimes has GTX and GTR engines.
19 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill SA 5088 AUSTRALIA
phone 61+ (8) 8369 1156
- Tri Point Engineering (Canoga Park, CA)
- Specialize in Mazda and BMW but have done mods on GTXs.
Tri Point Engineering
21417 Ingomar St # 7
Canoga Park, CA 91304
- Wholesale Hyperformance (Diamond Bar, CA)
We sell most major aftermarket performance brands for imports such as:
HKS, Blitz, Greddy, Gab, Koni, Tokico, Eibach, Intrax, Bilstein, KYB,
Magnacore, Nology, NGK, MSD, K&N, Mazdaspeed (auth. Dealer), PIAA,
Sparco, Momo, Razo, Volk, Racing Hart, SSR, RSR, Catz, OMORI, Autometer,
1174 Diamond Bar Blvd. Ste #231
Diamond Bar, CA. 91765