1988 323 GTX Mazda 323 GTX - For Sale and Wanted to Buy 
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Latest update: December 5, 2009
More than one hundred fifty five sales of Mazda GTX! Cars have been sold at least 153 times through this page. That's a lot, considering that only about a thousand of the cars were sold new in North America.
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For Sale

1988 Mazda 323 GTX for sale (Airdrie, Alberta, Canada)
1988 Mazda 323 GTX Turbo AWD in Airdrie, Alberta, Canada. Stock and untouched 147,000km (90,000miles). A/C, P.W. sunroof, recent tires, perfect glass. Minor rust started around wheel wells. More pictures/info available on request. Runs excellent, electrical all works, no drips, probably needs rotors/muffler and the ashtray is missing. A/C hasn't been checked, very bottom left side of drivers seat has usual vinyl tear. Original owner was a doctor in Regina till 2008. Has been inspected and registered in Alberta. Asking $3900 CDN (approx $3700 U.S.)
Contact: or call 403-945-0456
(Listed November 7, 2009)

1988 Mazda 323 GTX for sale (Bend, Oregon)
1988-89 Mazda 323 GTX, 165,8XX mi, Turbo All Wheel Drive. Finally! Here is your chance to buy this car. Asking price: US$2850
Please know, you will not be allowed to test drive the car without cash in hand. Offers welcome, but serious offers only please, I do not have a lot of free time, and time wasters will be treated accordingly. I have many more photos.
A rare find to be sure, the Mazda 323GTX had a limited production run in the North American market of just 1,265 cars. It was produced and sold specifically to meet rally racing homologation requirements of the time, and Mazda lost money on each retail unit sold. At the time (back in ’88-’89) they were comparatively expensive (I think about 16k). This car has been used as a daily driver since the day I bought it about 4 years ago. I bought it from a collector in the SF bay area who had 2 other GTXs (as well as a 2004 STi and a 2005Evo MR).
The car costs me $28/month to insure. The last time I kept track I was getting about 27mpg on the highway. (Trips to Portland and back, and I feel this would improve with a tune-up). The car is currently registered and insured to me, and until last week (when I bought a new car) was used as my daily driver.
I will do my best to include every detail I know about the car. The car is sold as is, please keep in mind the car is 20 years old. It’s been an exceptionally reliable car that’s required very little maintenance.
All fluids are changed regularly. All fluids are synthetic. Castrol GTX Synthetic oil in motor. Synthetic brake fluid. Synthetic gear oil in manual box. Synthetic fluid in rear diff.
The 5th gear is from a manual Mazda 626, making 5th gear taller than stock, and hence making the car much more fuel efficient and drivable on the highway.
Engine:
  • Push-button start
  • HKS intake
  • HKS exhaust
  • PSI tuning ECU (12psi max boost) (stock ECU also included)
  • Bosch blow off valve
  • Remote oil filter (huge and common oil filter, increases oil volume by 1qt also aids oil cooling)
  • Battery relocated to trunk
  • Battery cut-off switch
  • Large Front mount intercooler
  • Hybrid Turbo ( VJ11/14/16/20 ) (detailed information on turbo etc. in PDF format: mazda323gtx_frey.pdf)
  • Large (6mm?) Megacore plug wires
  • HKS Turbo Timer
  • Manual dash switch for radiator fan
Suspension:
  • Front strut tower brace
  • Coilover shocks at all four corners
  • Front camber plates
  • Large sway bars with poly bushings (front and rear)
  • Mazdaspeed rear limited slip differential
  • Factory push-button locking center differential
  • Stock 14" wheels with Winterforce studless snow tires are on the vehicle
  • Also included: (4) [4 x 114.3 (or) 4 x 100] 15" Enkei F1 wheeels (with appropriate hub centering rings) (curb rash one of the wheels, pictured)
Brakes:
  • 4-wheel disc
  • Front cross-drilled rotors
  • Stainless braided lines at all corners
  • Synthetic fluid
  • Factory Recaro Seats (adjustable bolsters on driver’s seat
  • MOMO steering wheel
  • HKS boost gauge located on A-pillar
Box of media included with purchase, including: Mazda shop manual, owner’s manuals, various magazines which featured the GTX, various receipts & other owner’s manuals. Stereo included (CD player with iPod/Mp3/aux input) (input cable plugged in & included) As stated the car runs and drives great. It does have some known issues though, and are stated as follows:
  • Front right wheel bearing needs to be replaced (sooner than later, bearing included in sale)
  • Rear defrost isn’t working
  • Front left CV boot was replaced with a split boot (totally fine, but not what I would call a long-term fix)
  • 3rd gear synchromesh grinds a bit (it has been doing it for some time, and I can shift it every time without it grinding, but at some point it should be addressed, or not)
  • A coolant hose had a small hole in it. I did a temporary fix with electrical tape and zip-ties, but it should be replaced. The coolant has been diluted with water due to the slow leak created by the small hole (it took me a while to track it down). Drain it and replace with anti-freeze before winter! (A new freeze plug is included; this should be replaced at the same time).
  • Needs a tune-up (fuel filter was replaced 5k ago, but could use to have the injectors cleaned, distributor cleaned, brakes bled, etc… routine maintenance things. Nothing pressing (with the exception of the front right wheel bearing), just needs a bit of TLC.
  • The entire car has minimal, if any, rust. Any rust it does have is surface rust. The paint is very tired, and is oxidizing on the roof. Originally the car was silver, it was painted green by the previous owner.

Contact: John Frey
(Listed November 7, 2009)

1988 Mazda 323 GTX for sale (Ashland, Oregon)
1988 GTX turbo for sale. The transmission is cracked and leaking badly but the thing is a beast and starts right up. its got about 83000 miles on it. it needs to be trailered or shipped. the transmission leak is getting on the clutch disk and causing it to slip. here's what i got:
  • non sunroof model with manual windows and analog dash
  • momo steering wheel
  • momo shift knob
  • HKS boost Gauge
  • HKS manual boost controller
  • HKS turbo timer
  • HKS air filter Assembly
  • Reich racing ECU with 7K rev limiter
  • sparco seats(carbon fiber retailed at 630$ a piece)
  • 6 pt. autopower cage bolt in
  • Simpson five point harnesses (expired)
  • winterforce tires
  • PIAA aux lighting
  • Cuzco front and rear strut bars
  • coilovers front and rear
  • adjustable rear toe links
  • Mazda gen 2 RX7 5 bolt hubs with RX7 calipers and brakes (front right rotor needs to be machined or replaced makes knocking when braking occasionally.
  • 15" alloy wheels
  • stop tech stainless steel brake lines and pads
  • working center differential lock hydraulic ebrake with front lock out valve
  • newer battery
  • fire extinguisher
  • factory Mazda shop manual
  • no A/C
  • working hatch shocks
I'm looking to get about US$1800 or best offer.
Contact:
(Pictures added November 7, 2009)

1988 Mazda 323 GTX for sale (Chicago, Illinois)
US$2400 OBO 1989 Mazda GTX 1.6L Turbo AWD 110000 miles Locking Center Differential 80% tread left on Blizzaks. Minty fresh interior (crank sunroof!) Brand new pioneer head unit 4 new 4.25 speakers Compression test 125 across the board (7.8 : 1 compression) Car dynoÕs at 120whp at waste-gate pressure Brand new bosch copper plugs Open element air filter + adapter Custom exhaust with no muffler (not horribly loud) Car has Dirtra Shocks in the rear, stockies in the front. Just put brand new rear sway-bar bushings in. Car rotates very well Gauge panel in stock radio location with Defi d-series boost gauge Transmission shifts good, no grinds when its warm Motor supposedly has about 45K on it, but I have no way to prove it. Transmission has fresh 75w90 in it Transfer case has redline shockproof in it Rear diff has 75w90 and shockproof in it Car has fresh battery Car has fresh brake lines from the front proportioning valve back Just replaced the passenger rear hub and installed newer trailing arm Also have for the car, but not currently installed: JDM intake manifold 440cc injectors and dual feed rail Ecu to control the injectors and raise the boost I drive it as-isÉ rain or shine, buy some may be concerned with: Two smallish panels need welded to the floor boards to get rid of some cancer 1 panel welded to the frame rail. Looking for $2400 obo. Let me know if you have any questions.
Contact: Phone number 630 212 4353
(Listed October 31, 2009)

1988 Mazda 323 GTX for sale (Steamboat Springs, Colorado)
I have a 1988 323 GTX for sale with around 140,000 miles and lots of extras. The car has a few problems and is not currently running. There is some sort of electrical problem that is preventing it from starting. I think that the cables going to the battery have gone bad, but am not sure. It is also in need of a paint job. The paint on the hood has come off, so it needs to be sanded and repainted. This car was originally set up by Road Race engineers for autocross and when it was in use it ran great and was very fast. It was re-chipped to run at 11 lbs of boost, and has a controller to up that to 16 lbs. It also has an extra gauge pod with gauges for exhaust temp, boost and fuel richness. It has a half roll cage, front and rear strut tower supports and heavy duty sway bars. It has Koni adjustables all around and 17 inch Bborbet rims. The tires will probably need to be replaced because it has been sitting for a few years.It has a performance intake as well as a larger exhaust. The alternater has been upgraded to a higher output and the brake lines have been upgraded to steel braided ones. It has hood vents, both rear wings, a working sunroof and all the original interior. The only flaw on the inside is a small crack in the dash. This would be a great car for someone who is good with working on older cars and wants to get into autocross or rally. I am asking US$2000 OBO.
Contact: or call 303-913-6197
(Listed October 13, 2009)

Mazda 323 GTX parts for sale (Aurora, Colorado)
I have a variety of parts specific to the GTX (Fiesta) that need a good home. Here’s a list of what I have: a rebuildable (two cracked valves) b6t engine (less turbo and exhaust manifold); 4 GTX wheels with Nokia snows; lower rear hatch spoiler; XSPower innercooler; complete set of engine rebuild gaskets; speedometer gauge cluster and some other misc. items. Email for photos.
Contact: , Harold Brantley, phone 303-868-5850
(Listed August 29, 2009)

1988 323 GTX (Chicago)
mazda 323 turbo gtx 4 x 4 1988 and im selling it cause im moving to Puerto Rico soon the car is in really good conditions the body needs a little work on the back panels but other then that it has a lot of new things in it. it has new brakes and rotors new struts the engine is in great conditions it has a sound system, alarm, power windows, sunroof 4 rims and 4 new tires, brand new muffler and a $300.00 exhaust pipe interiors is in great conditions also a new clutch and pressure plate im asking for $3500.00 im from Chicago, il if you need more information call me at this # (773) 656-8574
Contact:
(Price updated July 1, 2009)

1988 323 GT - Not a GTX (Salt Lake City, Utah)
I have an '88 Mazda 323 GT for sale. el prototype ecu mapped up to 18 psi, vf11/vj11 hybrid turbo! boost comes in at 3500 rpm and comes in hard! car is fast! competition clutch, conquest/starion FMIC, cone filter, 2" hard pipes and bosche bypass valve, 2 1/2" turbo back exhaust, engine only has 10,000 miles on it since rebuild, compression is 140 accross! car runs great! magnecore 8mm wires, boost controller set at 15 psi, new springs in distributor, new cap and rotor, new plugs gapped at 32 thousandths. tires are in good shape, the breaks have been blead and i replaced the driver side front rotor cause it was cracked. this car is basically overall in pretty sweet condition. no overheating problems. i just replaced the alternator and battery as they decided to fail a while back.. i have been driving this car daily for the last 10,000 miles without really too many issues.. i fixed them all :). car was stock when i got it except for the exhaust. i went over pretty everything and made it nice, along with all the upgrades for a NICE, QUICK, RELIABLE, DAILY.. best thing about this car is its basically RUST FREE!! IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND IN THESE CARS!!..
what it needs:
a new windshield as this one is cracked pretty bad and will need replacing to get it to pass safety inspection. no stereo or speakers its been like that since i got it also. there is a big dent in the driver-side fender that was there when i got the car.. the sunroof doesnt FULLY function although it does prop up. and the driver window doesnt roll up or down i think the switch is bad (power windows). all the other windows work .
price is US$2800 obo. car is located in salt lake city, utah.
Contact: email or call me with any questions 801-425-5077
(Listed June 9, 2009)

323 GTX motor (Spokane Washington)
I have a good rebuildable motor for sale. Best offer. Also a bare 1.6 DOHC head for sale. $50 plus shipping.
Contact:
(Listed February 28, 2009)
eBay Auctions

Wanted to Buy

Wanted 323 GTX project (Seattle, Washington)
I am looking for 323 gtx project car near Seattle, WA. Car must run, everyting else doesn't matter. Will pay cash.
Contact:
(Listed December 5, 2009)

Wanted 323 GTX project (Indiana)
I'm looking for a GTX project. I'm in Indiana and I'm not in a big hurry, but I would like to start looking. I've wanted to get into Rally racing for many years since I started autocrossing over 15 years ago.
Contact: Randy Domeck or call 317-258-0039
(Listed November 7, 2009)

Wanted 323 GTX (British Columbia)
I'm looking for a 323GTX. I live in BC and would like to find one relatively rust free for trade for a 93 Toyota SR5 Pickup, or looking to spend about $2000
Contact: Pete Rensen or call 250-512-8055
(Listed October 31, 2009)
Tech Tips and Questions
 
Q. High idle when warm
My GTX recently started idling at nearly 2000rpm when warm. I've got a factory maintenance manual and it seems to point to a faulty BAC valve but the price on one of those is over $500. I'm also getting a "Check Engine" light. Good news is that the engine is still there! Bad news is that I don't have one of those little thingy's to check the code in the computer - know how to do it the "other" way?
From: John A. Virnig, email <javirnig@aol.com>

A. Problem Solved!
I found the problem a short time after a person on your web page emailed me. Turns out the A/C button was depressed and while the A/C isn't working (insufficient Freon), the computer still bumps the idle.

Q. How to read diagnostic codes?

A. Here's how you get the codes from the computer without the Mazda diagnostic tool
When you open your hood there is a pair of green connectors driver's side right back by the hood hinge. One is a six or eight pin connector, the other is a single pin. The eight pin works with the Mazda System 27 checker. That gives the codes directly to the checker, but you need the tool. The other single wire connector is the one that you want. It should be a female spade connector. All you do is shut the car off, open your hood, ground that connector (I have a male jumper for the connector and an alligator clip on the other end that I grab one of the strut mounting studs for grounding), hop back in the car and turn the ignition switch to on. In addition to seeing your oil light and your alternator light, you should see a check engine light on the top row. The light comes on steady for two or three seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on, but then will blink out the code that the computer has stored. Long blinks mean 10's and short blinks mean ones. Multiple codes are separated by a pause. The meaning of each of the codes is in the factory workshop manual, although you have to look a bit.

Q. Engine Trouble
I have a real stumper here and I'm hoping you can help me out! I own an '88 Mazda 323 GT which has one of those fancy 16 valve DOHC TURBO charged engines. It currently has 99,450 miles on it.
Last Sunday I washed the engine with a power washer. It hasn't been the same since. When I drove away I could hear sparking and could tell it was missing because of the water. I let it sit until the next day, when I noticed it was loosing power up around 4000 RPM. In fact it was taking so long to accelerate from 4000-5000 RPM that the Turbo Over boost warning came on! I continued to drive the car for a few days and the problem got worse and worse. It was so bad Wednesday night that I had to slip the clutch significantly just to get the car rolling. If I kept the engine below 3000 RPM it would decelerate even with it floored.
On Thursday I took it to my local shop. The found a crack in the distributor cap so we replaced it. Unfortunately that didn't do anything. After they checked all the obvious things I decided to try to get to work! I barely got on to the highway, but managed some how. When I got off the highway (30 miles later) the car was FINE, it had fixed it's self!! I was excited! Only to my dismay did I find the problem back Thursday evening when I got in to go home. The same thing happened on the ride home. After about 15 min on the highway it fixed it self and I had full power.
I took it to shop number 2 on Friday and left it there all day. He couldn't find anything wrong. He checked spark, timing, fuel pressure, air filter/intake, the exhaust system for a blockage and anything else he could think of. After a day of looking he called me and said I give up.
Monday I took it to the dealer and they did a wet compression check and said that the cylinders are supposed to have 154 but only have 100,90,80,104. They want me to authorize them to tear down the engine for $500.00 just to give me a diagnosis and estimate. What should I do? How could it be an intermittent problem and have low compression? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thank you for your time. Jeff Banet

A. Problem Solved!
Date Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:16:28 -0400
From: Jeff Banet
Thanks for the posting, it turned out to be the crank that was broken!! Read below, Brian knew right what it was! As it turned out, the dealer figured it out the same day Brian e-mailed me...

Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 23:49:12 -0400
From: Brian <Project323@Rocketmail.com>
Subject: your 323 gtx problem
Jeff, First of all check the bottom pulley attatched to your crankshaft. Does it appear to wobble from side-to-side? It sounds like you have a broken keyway on your crankshaft. This accounts for the low compression readings and dismal performance. It is likely a coincidence that you pressure washed the car when you did. If you need help with a replacement crank or bottom end please write or call me. Project 323 is the world wide owners group for Mazda 323 enthusiasts. I have several used and 1 new bottom end around as well as ECUs, turbos (new & used) and always have a huge supply of parts on hand

Q. Normal Exhaust Temp?
What should the normal exhaust gas temperature range be on the 1988 B6 DOHC engine as measured at the exhaust manifold?
Thanks, Eric Rehwald, Jasper, AB, Canada

A. Around 1300 F
I have a 323 Gtx and I saw your question about the exhaust gas temp. on the turbo engine. I took out my catalytic convertor but I was seeing 1350 F on the interstate. Now I rarely get over 1300 but road race told me that these are normal temp's. If you get up around 1600 something is wrong. I try and let my car cool 1min~800 F, 2min~1000 F, 4in~>1200 F. Hope this helps some. Mike at Road Race is the expert.
From: Clay McLendon

Q. Stumble off idle
I have a question for visitors to this site. My GTX has a bad stumble just off of idle. It is most noticeable when trying to hold a steady speed, like on the highway. It only does it when it is warm. First thought was throttle position sensor, but no trouble codes are indicated by the computer, and everything checks out in terms of resistances. If I take the computer out of closed loop by disconnecting the Oxygen sensor the problem goes away. The sensor is a Bosch unit, and is sending a signal. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

A. Problem Solved!
The problem was traced to a bad ground.

Books from amazon.com
Here are some books that may interest you, that can be ordered online.
Mazda Motorsports
A great little book, with plenty of photos, that covers the spectrum of Mazda racing in the USA from about 1970 through 1991. Several cool pictures of full-race 323 GTX in action.
More Information Here
Chilton Repair Manual
A basic manual that covers the full variety of maintenance and repair procedures.
More Information Here
Businesses that sell 323 GTX performance parts
I can't vouch for each of these folks, but here are some contacts if you are looking for parts to soup up your 323 GTX. Please let me know of others.
Advanced Jap Auto Imports
Mobile 0421 025 216
Phone 9311-9966
Website: http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au
Email:
(Listing added: September 28, 2005)
Reich Racing Ltd
Reich Racing Limited
261-525 Highland Road West
Kitchener, Ontario
Canada N2M 5P4
E-mail: Project323@ReichRacing.on.ca
Web site: www.ReichRacing.com
We have developed ECU upgrades and other performance parts for Mazda's 323 turbos, MX-6 GT, and the B6T powered Mercury Capri XR2.
(Listing updated: January 3, 2005)
DJT Motorsports
My name is Darin Stocker, I run a small race shop called DJT Motorsports in Detroit.
I have 2 GTX's and have worked on many, both street and race. Currently I am building
a stroked 1.6 for a customer and am also rebuilding a transmission for another.
DJT Motorsports - Detroit
313-895-9353
(Customer wrote to say they were happy with tranny, clutch, flywheel, axles, and computer work. - Reed S., Jan. 2003)
Pete Waltz
Pete is selling new old stock Koni struts and other GTX items
http://members.cardomain.com/pkwgtx
pkwgtx@yahoo.com
(Listed November 5, 2003)
Road / Race Engineering
13022 La Dana Ct.
Santa Fe Springs, Ca. 90670
(562) 777-1522 phone
e-mail sales@roadraceengineering.com
web site www.roadraceengineering.com
Cork Sport
6705 NE 79th Ct, Suite 1
Portland, OR 97218
(503) 252-5700
Web site www.corksport.com
E . L . PROTOTYPES
410 S. Motor Ave. #C
Azusa, CA 91702
(626) 812-4358 phone
e-mail ELProto@aol.com
We have been doing 323 GTX and Familia ECU upgrades for about 5 years now and we have assisted in many transplants of these motors into FWD only cars. Eric Lapka, owner.
Rod Millen Motorsport
http://www.rodmillen.com
HKS USA
www.hksusa.com
13401 S. Main Street
Los Angeles Ca. 90061
(310) 491-3300
Propulsion Motorworks
Midori Machi 2-13-18
Gushikawa City
Okinawa Japan
Tel/Fax (98)973-9322
e-mail promotor@ii-okinawa.ne.jp
Adelaide Jap Dismantlers
Australian used parts supplier. Sometimes has GTX and GTR engines.
19 Jacobsen Crescent, Holden Hill SA 5088 AUSTRALIA
phone 61+ (8) 8369 1156
Tri Point Engineering (Canoga Park, CA)
Specialize in Mazda and BMW but have done mods on GTXs.
Tri Point Engineering
21417 Ingomar St # 7
Canoga Park, CA 91304
(818) 348-5385
Wholesale Hyperformance (Diamond Bar, CA)
We sell most major aftermarket performance brands for imports such as: HKS, Blitz, Greddy, Gab, Koni, Tokico, Eibach, Intrax, Bilstein, KYB, Magnacore, Nology, NGK, MSD, K&N, Mazdaspeed (auth. Dealer), PIAA, Sparco, Momo, Razo, Volk, Racing Hart, SSR, RSR, Catz, OMORI, Autometer, APEXi, etc.
Wholesale Hyperformance
1174 Diamond Bar Blvd. Ste #231
Diamond Bar, CA. 91765
Phone: 626-337-7855
Fax: 626-851-1998
e-mail: wholehyper@earthlink.net
www.wholesalehyperformance.com
Want to be listed on this page?
If you would like to add a listing to this page, email the details to me, Reed Sturtevant, at . Send me a picture if you like. There is no charge for these listings. Cars have been sold at least 155 times through this page! Some success stories:
 
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