• Ground Control coil overs at all four corners and adjustable struts up front with stock shocks in back.
• Full mandrel 2.5" bent exhaust to a straight thru Magnaflow muffler with no cat
• JDM Tranny (Short gears)
• Supposed ported head
• Camber plates up front
• Large custom made FMIC with custom piping
• Turbo XS adjustable BOV
• Manual boost controller set to 10psi
• K&N filter on custom turbo intake
• MSD blaster 3 coil with MSD wires and NGK plugs
• Mazdaspeed clutch (getting tired, but doesn't slip)
• Oil temp gauge
• A/F gauge (narrow band tapped into 02 sensor)
• Water temp gauge
• All three gauges are in a custom cluster in the center console.
• Boost gauge on the pillar
• SS brake lines (hard lines probably should be replaced)
• 255lph Walbro in tank fuel pump
• New fuel filter
• Front strut bar
• 4 Extra rims with tires (50% tread left)
• Black front bra
• Slimline fan
• Alpine CD player with upgraded speakers all around.
• X2-Racing steering wheel
• Timing belt, water pump and tensioner have been replaced within the past 15k miles

• Complete B6T Engine Runs well, but w/ 147k I'd put in new bearings (99% Complete with turbo, manifolds, alternator, sensors, etc.)
• USDM B6T tranny that seemed mint for the 2 miles I tested it.
• Computer
• Gas tank
• Fuel pump and assembly
• L & R complete doors
• L & R fenders
• Hood
• Rear bumper
• Front bumper
• Front headlights lights
• Front grill
• A few sets of axles
• Rear end pumpkin
• Full stock exhaust
• Flywheel
• Stock clutch and PP
• Rotors and associated brake parts
• 4 spare hubs
• 4 Mazda center caps for the rims
• Digital cluster
• Center console
• Factory radio
• Front and rear seats
• Shifter cables
• Steering wheel
• Sunroof tray
• Custom rear deck
• Side mirrors
• 4WD mechanical actuator
• 4WD engagement button
• Complete driveshaft with mounts
• Spare radiator (not sure if it leaks so get it checked)

• There is a crack in the windshield.
• The car has the typical clicking starter (brand new) when trying to start on occasion. Although, it has always started and never left me stranded.
• Since I have had the car the tranny has made a clicking noise while in first gear, but it never got worse. I'm not sure what the noise is but the car drives fine.
• In the really cold weather second gear can get a little grindy. I think it may need a new clutch master or slave. Once the car warms up it's fine. In the summertime there is no issue.
• I have no idea how many miles are on the engine, but it runs fine. I was told at some time the head was ported. The engine does leak some oil although it's never more than half a quart for 3,000 miles. -The driver side door makes a clicking sound when trying to roll up the window although it's already up. The
• The seats have some sun wear and are getting brittle. The spare seats are better off but have some stains.
• The driver's seatbelt doesn't fully retract.
• Drivers window makes clicking sound when holding up the button after the window has reached the top. It works fine, just makes a clicking sound.
• The locking center differential still works well with the button, but the sensor to notify that it has engaged doesn’t. So, the light in the cabin doesn’t tell you it has engaged yet it has. You can swap the sensor from the spare tranny, but it's really tight in there and you're not supposed to use locking center diff on a hard surface anyway so I let it be.
• The car could use some paint. The sides and hood are fine, but the roof is getting really bad with oxidation.
• Gas gauge only works for the top 1/4 tank, but from there down it doesn’t do anything. But the low fuel light works, so I refill when that light comes on.
• The front bumper on the car has a lower lip on it and also has a small 3" by 8" hole (roughly) to allow more cooling for the FMIC.
• All A/C components have been removed.
• The PO must've ran over something that pierced the gas tank. I patched it and it hasn’t leaked since and I am also throwing in a spare tank.
• The check-engine light flickers randomly until you hit the gas pedal. It's the TPS sensor that's not set properly. I set it once and it went away, but now it's back again. So, it probably has to be set again.

Engine:
   Stock IHI VJ11 turbo set to 10 psi (computer cut is at 11 psi)
            Computer upgrade is good to turbo's max of 15 psi
   EVO 8 FMIC with 2.0 inlet pipe and 2.5 outlet pipes
   DSM Blow off valve
   VAM adjusted to blow through and mounted immediately before throttle body
   custom exhaust manifold
   3" turboback exhaust with 3" muffler
   highflow conical airfilter
   TiAL 35mm wastegate

Suspension
   Polyurethane bushings on front and rear swaybars
   new front ball joints
   Koni adjustable shocks front and rear (modified to fit and gives ~1* negative camber)
   Ground Control Coilovers front and rear

Interior
   Grant steering wheel
   Fazer Boost gauge
   Fazer A/F ratio gauge
   Both of above are in A-pillar pod
   digital dash
   Shifter bushings have been replaced to firm up shift feel
   clean(-ish) interior

Spares
   Spare miata 1.6 diff with rebuild viscous limited slip
   Spare VAM configured for draw through
   Stock shocks and springs
   stock 14" alloys with tires
   15" steelies from a 240 sx (no tires but good for race rubber)
   15" alloys from Lancer OZ rally (looks soooo good!) with good tires
   266 mm Front rotors from Mitsubishi Galant (new)
   215 mm Rear rotors from Mitsubishi Galant (new)
   Front calipers from 2000 Ford Escort ZX2
   Rear calipers from 1.6L Miata
   Brake Booster from 1995 Protege
   Master cylinder from 1999 929

A. Problem Solved!
I found the problem a short time after a person on your web page emailed me. Turns out the A/C button was depressed and while the A/C isn't working (insufficient Freon), the computer still bumps the idle.

A. Here's how you get the codes from the computer without the Mazda diagnostic tool
When you open your hood there is a pair of green connectors driver's side right back by the hood hinge. One is a six or eight pin connector, the other is a single pin. The eight pin works with the Mazda System 27 checker. That gives the codes directly to the checker, but you need the tool. The other single wire connector is the one that you want. It should be a female spade connector. All you do is shut the car off, open your hood, ground that connector (I have a male jumper for the connector and an alligator clip on the other end that I grab one of the strut mounting studs for grounding), hop back in the car and turn the ignition switch to on. In addition to seeing your oil light and your alternator light, you should see a check engine light on the top row. The light comes on steady for two or three seconds when you first turn the ignition switch on, but then will blink out the code that the computer has stored. Long blinks mean 10's and short blinks mean ones. Multiple codes are separated by a pause. The meaning of each of the codes is in the factory workshop manual, although you have to look a bit.

A. Problem Solved!
Date Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:16:28 -0400
From: Jeff Banet
Thanks for the posting, it turned out to be the crank that was broken!! Read below, Brian knew right what it was! As it turned out, the dealer figured it out the same day Brian e-mailed me...

Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 23:49:12 -0400
From: Brian <Project323@Rocketmail.com>
Subject: your 323 gtx problem
Jeff, First of all check the bottom pulley attatched to your crankshaft. Does it appear to wobble from side-to-side? It sounds like you have a broken keyway on your crankshaft. This accounts for the low compression readings and dismal performance. It is likely a coincidence that you pressure washed the car when you did. If you need help with a replacement crank or bottom end please write or call me. Project 323 is the world wide owners group for Mazda 323 enthusiasts. I have several used and 1 new bottom end around as well as ECUs, turbos (new & used) and always have a huge supply of parts on hand

A. Around 1300 F
I have a 323 Gtx and I saw your question about the exhaust gas temp. on the turbo engine. I took out my catalytic convertor but I was seeing 1350 F on the interstate. Now I rarely get over 1300 but road race told me that these are normal temp's. If you get up around 1600 something is wrong. I try and let my car cool 1min~800 F, 2min~1000 F, 4in~>1200 F. Hope this helps some. Mike at Road Race is the expert.
From: Clay McLendon

A. Problem Solved!
The problem was traced to a bad ground.